Here's The Hooded Eyelid Article That I've Been Avoiding

If you’re not great with liquid liners, that’s fine girl, you’ve still got options.
Publish date:
January 6, 2016
shoppables, eye shadow, makeup tutorial, hooded eyelids

I’ve been avoiding writing this article because eye shadow isn’t one of my strong points. I mean, this article was my idea, but still — what was I thinking? Oh, that's right: you guys have been asking me to write something like this for a while now, and I live to serve, so here we go. We’re gonna get through this together.

Every time I mention that I have hooded lids, you guys always say “WRITE AN ARTICLE ABOUT EYE SHADOW FOR HOODED LIDS” and I’m like “NAH.” I don’t often wear shadow, and when I do, it’s usually for the sake of an article. I think it looks weird on me, and makes my eyes sink back into my skull more than they already are. Mascara? That’s a different story.

I’ve bitched before about how eye shadow palettes are taking over the world. Obviously, eye palettes are great and I’m only cranky about them because I feel left out. You guys seem to like them, though, so I figured I’d play along.

The first step to doing your hooded lids is, of course, primer. A good rule of thumb is to not put on any makeup without priming your face first, but hooded lids especially. Everyone’s lids are oily, but when your mobile lid sinks back into your face and rests against your skin, there’s more of an oil buildup which will make your shadow crease and disappear altogether. It also helps keep the shadow from going on tour up to the brow bone. If you need a good one, pick up Urban Decay’s Eyeshadow Primer Potion, $20. It’s the one everyone uses, and there’s a reason for that.

Kelly over on Vain makes the great point that if you use a brightly colored liner, it will basically do the job for you. This is such an easy, perfect trick. She used Sigma’s Line Ace in Inscription, an ultraviolet. I’m actually wearing it in Endorse, a stark white, here. White liner looks killer and is very underrated, IMO, but that’s not why we’re here.

I wanted to illustrate her point on my own face. I’m obsessed with red tones on the face right now, and I’m also super obsessed with Jeffree Star’s Velour Liquid Lipsticks. My favorite shade Androgyny, a mauve with a bit of berry, so I used my Bare Minerals Essential Eyeliner brush to line my eyes with the liquid lipstick. If you think this sounds crazy, it’s not. It stays for hours on your lips and it’s gonna do the same on your eyes. It’s light and a dream to work with.

So there’s that. That's a thin line, right? But look, when my eyes are open, that line is all you can see.

If you’re not great with liquid liners, that’s fine girl, you’ve still got options. Any colored liner pencil will do. Urban Decay’s 24/7 Glide-On Eye Pencils are great to work with and come in a billion colors. Maybelline is also launching Color Tattoo Eye Shadow Crayons this season which will be great for pulling off this look.

If eye shadow is still your thing, that's great, too.

One trick when using eye shadow when you have you hooded lids is to cheat the shadow out and apply it directly to your lid. This works especially nicely with a smoky eye.

A lot of people are going to tell you to only use matte eye shadows, because putting shimmer on your hood highlights it and brings it forward, and most people are trying to make the eye look more open by making the hood look recessed. As always, I say do whatever the fuck you want. There's nothing wrong with having hooded lids, and I know you all love shimmer. Shimmery shadows also look beautiful when blended for smokey looks. I mean, hell, even I pulled it off here.

That being said, today we are using matte shadows.

When Urban Decay, the reigning overlord of eye palettes announced the Gwen Stefani palette, I knew I was screwed because I worship the ground she walks on and will write about any and all of her beauty collabs.


The palette isn't exactly what I expected, but then again, I'm not exactly sure what I expected. Instead of pulling from her past iconic looks for color inspiration like her (flawless) OPI collection did, this is a much more present day, grown up Gwen collection, filled with many beige-nudes with differing finishes, the essential darks, and a few pops of color.

Since I'm all about reds on the eyes right now, I based the look around Punk, this gorgeous matte brown-red.

First, using my Sigma E25 brush, I covered my lid with Stark, a matte beige with just a hint of pink.

This color was closest to my skin tone so it made for a nice base to lay under everything else and help all the colors blend together.

Then, I took Punk and using my Sigma E45 Tapered Blending Brush, I started to carve out my crease, making sure to keep everything even and taking special care to make sure it moved from my crease to my hood fluidly.

I tried to apply this color from my lid to my hood in a soft triangle shape because I am a member of the Illuminati.

Sigma's Tapered Blending Brush really made all the difference here. All of Sigma's brushes are killer, obviously, but this one is made especially for looks like this one and it makes crease and socket work so much easier,

Next, I pressed just a bit of Blackout, a matte black, into my outer corner to deepen the crease.

Then, to finish this shit off, I used my Sigma E32 Exact Blend brush to pack Baby, a shimmery rose gold, into my inner corners because that's just what you do. Smoky eyes, etc.

Then, to finish this shit off, I used my Sigma E32 Exact Blend brush to pack Baby, a shimmery rose gold, into my inner corners because that's just what you do. Smoky eyes, etc.

I actually do that all the time, with one of the hundred highlighters I'm always using. Highlighting the inner corners of your eye, by your tear ducts, really opens your eyes and makes them pop.

Throw on your favorite liner and mascara, and you're done!

If you're think you're screwing this up, you're not, you probably just need to blend more. You can really fix any mistake with a soft hand and more blending.

Another trick is, after you've finished your shadow, if you want to clean up your shape on the outer edges, dab some concealer onto a flat brush and clean up your line. This can really save the whole look. Extend your liner out to where your shadow and concealer meet and boom, you look like a pro.

What do you guys think? I think the lid looks so pretty, if I do say so myself, but again, most of that work disappears when I open my eyes. It's not perfect, but I think it's good.

Do you have hooded lids, how do you do your eyes? Tell me everything (AND SHOW ME) in the comments!

Tynan and his hooded lids are on Twitter @TynanBuck.